Today is about Jewish history in Kerala. Sharif, our driver, and Rajesh,took us on a long drive from Cochin (would have been shorter, but we had to circumvent a half-marathon). On route, the first temple was closed, but beautiful, then on to Chennamangalam. The tombstone just outside is inscribed, “Sara bat Israel”, daughter of Israel, dated 1269, making it the oldest Hebrew text in India. Kerala Jews have lived on the Malabar coast for centuries. There are theories that they came to find exotic woods for King Solomon’s Temple, others that claim the Jews arrived after the destruction of the Second Temple. There is a Christian story that St Thomas came to Malabar and encountered a Jewish flautist, giving credence to the presence of Jews in the 1st century AD.
The present synagogue in Chennamangalam was built in 1614, during the Portuguese inquisition. As in all of India, the Jews lived with their Christian, Hindu, and Muslim neighbors in total equality and harmony. It was a small community, numbering 164 in 1848 ( out of 1344 in the Cochin area). In 1948, after Israeli Independence, the Chennamangalam Jews left for Israel, as did most of the Cochin Jews.
The synagogue we were in is the third on the site and is now also a memorial museum. One of the other visitors was a Cochin Jew who left when she was four. This was her first time back and she was looking at documented photos of her family, including a sister she just lost.
The Chennamangalam Jews did very well in Israel and one of them returned to build a house on his family’s property. The house is getting the finishing touches and the caretaker of the synagogue is sending all the Israelis who visit, across the path to visit the couple. We, of course, went over to visit and the woman told Ronni she was going crazy with all the visitors. It was pretty funny—wonder if she really minds all the visitors. We were happy just to say hello and use her bathroom.
All this time, we have been in Rajesh’s care. He has a deep knowledge and understanding of Cochin Jewish history. Working backwards in time, he took us to Craganore, the costal spot where the Jews originally landed and were welcomed by the local Raj. We walked through a retired policeman’s property and watched a beautiful old woman collecting tamarind pods from under a tree. We were now at the confluence of 4 or 5 rivers, just up river from the Arabian Sea, a perfect place to land. The site became a Portuguese fort and is being restored. We met the architect or builder, not sure. By the it was time for snack and chai Masala tea so we found a roadside stall and tasted a few varieties of bananas. Sooo good, what America has done to the banana is a sin. The proprietor also owned the cafe a few yards down and he made us perfect chai.
On our way back to Fort Cochin, Rajesh entertained us with the story of his arranged marriage. As he he lived a rather worldly life prior to his marriage, he described it as an adjustment of choice. He and his wife now have a 3 year old daughter.
We returned to lunch at a great restaurant where we picked out a butter fish and had it made or order. I keep ordering bindi (okra) and every time it is, of course, better than the last. I am also living on lassis, plain, sweet, salty, masala…Danny told me I’d be fine as long as I ate lots of yogurt. Thank you Danny, I’m doing great in that department…so far.
After lunch we went to Jew street and the synagogue. It was like a mob scene, it appears that every tour group, Indian and otherwise visits the synagogue. There is a great story about the generosity of the local raj toward the Jews and a sad and touching photo of the Raj’s last official visit to the synagogue before independence in 1947.
Walking back, we happened upon a celebration at the Hindu temple. There were 3 elephants, decked out in gold, and about 30 young shirtless men with a variety of instruments, playing a raga (for you Jews, think nigun). Tired and full from lunch, skipped dinner, just had some yogurt and fruit.
