Play, Practice, Learn

#7 Cochin, India

A word about shoes. For those of you who insisted I take comfortable closed-toed, washable shoes, I thank you. I have only put them on for a few hours (the Dhavari walk), but it was worth every minute. The rest of the time, just watch where you step! South India is a sandal place, in the market places, streets, even the fish market. OK, maybe most people would choose not to wear open toed shoes in the fish market…

It is probably different from 5,10 years ago. In Mumbai, there is a Starbucks and McDonalds. I avoid them in LA, there is every reason to avoid them here.  The food is wonderful, amazing, different and better than any Indian restaurant in LA. You know how there is always someone in your life eager to tell you that whatever sex they just had was the best they ever had? Then after you hear the same line a dozen times, from the same person, you get kind of suspect? So that’s how is is with the food here, just keeps getting better and better. The food at the dives, the food at the nicer restaurants, all really, really good.

Driving here has been an experience. Our driver in Mumbai is a lovely, quiet man, then he starts the car and his horn becomes his voice. Red lights mean something different here. They are basically a suggestion to stop. If no one is around….. And sometimes if people are around—seems to depend on the mood of the driver.

We left the Residency Fort hotel reluctantly. A few of the front desk guys and a few of the wait staff were so helpful. Our concierge walked us to the restaurant the first evening. Our waiter at breakfast came over to check out our pictures—he approved.

Which brings me to our exchanges with most everyone we encounter. Indians are generally quick to smile—on the street, from a car or bus window. Ok, one guy I smiled at stuck his finger up his nose, but I’m trying to forget that.

Anyway, we spent a few hours at the airport before flying to Cochin. Deepa’s company, Magic Tours of India, has been pretty terrific. We arrived at the airport and we were met by a rep. as we got out of the car. He escorted us through the entrance and stood in line for us at the ticket counter. No one has ever done that for me before. He took us all the way to the security entrance, and sure we knew where we were going, said his goodbyes. Then we had 2 hours to kill. We sat for a while and I started chatting with a young woman who had just married and was honeymooning in Cochin. She and her husband were traveling with another couple and they decided to keep an eye on me. It started with a piece of candy, then on the plane, a big chunk of Cadbury—I had obviously found a fellow chocolate lover. When we deplaned, they insisted on taking pics together. (More on that later.)

On the plane, there was more of that seemingly arbitrary administrative stuff.  Every once and a while, the flight attendant would randomly ask to check boarding passes. Ronni and I continue to find that most amusing. The plane was in the air, what could have been the purpose?

We arrived in Cochin and was met by Xavier, another guide. His job was just to get us to our driver for the 90 minute drive to the city. We were feeling very spoiled by now, and loving every minute. We were also starving and asked our driver to stop so we could eat something. He found a local spot, we sat at the only available table and ordered. We were the only tourists there, the only white people and the only people given forks. Ronni and I decided to blend in (as if) and eat with our fingers. No problem if you are right handed… I did manage and we had a good meal and a bit of conversation with the group of 20ish young men at the next table. An then began an odd phenomenon that was the beginning of a trend—families in Kerala wanting to have their pictures taken with me. This time it was an adorable little girl, who at the urging of her mom sidled up to me as the dad pulled out his smart phone and snapped away.

We eventually got to our place, signed the ledger book and had a cup of chai tea. We are staying at Saj Homestay, a lovely 6 room inn owned and run by Saj and his family. His 10 year old daughter, Natasha, pulled out a map and explained the layout of the town, where to eat and what to see.

We had tickets for Kathakali and the elaborate make up session before the performance. Kathakali is one of world’s oldest forms of theater, and began on Kerala (the state we are in). Dancers use movement and mime to recreate stories from Ramayama and the Mahabharata. Our evening performance included a detailed explanation of eye and movement and mudras (hand gestures) so that when the performance began we had a clue as to what was going on. We also had a copy of the story in the program notes. Pinchas was amused for about 15 minutes, Ronni and I both thoroughly enjoyed it.

We had another great dinner—local fish, salty lassi, maybe the best cauliflower we’ve ever had. And new we are seeing the mark of Israeli presence – Israeli salad on the menu. Lots of Israelis go to the beach resort of Goa, not too far from Cochin, after the army. Cochin and surrounding areas in Kerala are ancient Jewish sites. But that is another day.