Ronni and I had been practicing on the roof of Saj Homestay. This morning, as I opened my door, Natasha was in the hallway and informed me it was her 11th birthday today. I told her we were going upstairs for yoga practice and invited her or join us. She was so much fun, joined in, chanted for us and did her first handstand ever. We recorded her singing and took pics of course. After breakfast, we said our goodbyes, and left with our driver Anil, for the day. We had a beautiful drive through the countryside arriving in Alleppey, and at the river, around noon. Suresh, the owner of Aqua Bliss, and Anthony, one of the staff, pulled up in a small boat and took us to our riverside, don’t really know what to call it—not at resort or hotel, just 3 rooms, a chef, and a gorgeous view—think National Geographic. I put my stuff down and found the hammock. Moments later, Anthony showed up with a perfect cup of chai masala tea.
Ronni and Pinchas are staying in a traditional Kerala home—all ebony wood huge porch, center room including a dining area, extra bed, hanging wooden platform the size of a single bed, a settee and TV. In the center of the room is a square basin, open to the sky; it catches the rain water and a mosquito net ostensibly keeps them out. We have all our meals there. My room is spacious, and also riverfront. The bathroom has a tub, but there is no hot water. I had toilet paper in my bathroom, but not much of a towel. Still, we don’t bath in the river clothed, as do the women here. We see them only at dawn and at dusk. We are off the grid here. Only the motors of the riverboats and the ubiquitous use of cell phones separate this place from 100 years ago. The overwhelming sounds are bird calls, women chatting and the sharp sound as they slap the wet laundry on stones at the river. They call this place the Venice of the East. All transportation is on the river, kids going to and from school, water busses and fancy houseboats for the tourists.
Lunch was local Kerala fish in masala sauce, bindi (okra), a delicious yellow coconut based sauce, and two kinds of rice, oh and another kind of fish we did not really like. The Kerala fish is round, rather flat, about 7 inches cross. It’s a sweet firm whitefish, always cooked whole. Two rice dishes because Pradeep, our chef, wanted us to taste Kerela rice. It looks like puffed rice, but firmer. Dinner was more of a feast as it was New Years Eve. We had Kerela fish again, grilled this time, mixed veg curry and another coconut sauce and rice. So far, every meal is preceded by a lively discussion with Pradeep and Anthony who help us plan our menu.
